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Matthew Williamson 2005秋冬纽约高级成衣发布!

  05秋冬,Matthew Williamson似乎决意要让女人们穿出华丽绚烂的一季。发布会在属于纽约共济会员俱乐部的The Grand Lodge Hall举行。水晶缀成的军服式样肩章、金银纱针织提花的风衣外套、灰色法兰绒镶金色绸缎领袖口的长裙、纯白色皮草背心式夹克纷至沓来,配合及膝长靴或露趾细带凉鞋。季节被遗忘,只留下满眼的奢华气质和显贵态度,再次证明了Williamson突破常规的创作热情。 除了大量运用金银色缎料点缀其间,营造浓浓的华丽氛围外,带有萤光效果的彩虹式条纹、淡雅的熏衣草紫也大量出现,形成了Williamson本季具代表性的两大趋势色调。再配合蝴蝶波纹的滚边裙摆、精致细腻的刺绣图案,无处不显露Williamson拿手的飘逸浪漫风格,让这个容易阴郁的季节也洋溢着欢愉的美丽。











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Anna Sui 2005秋冬高級成衣發布!

  本季Anna Sui的设计灵感源自热衷废物利用的装置艺术家Louise Nevelson(1898-1988),将各种元素、质感的拼接混搭玩到极致。粗犷的朋克风金属坠链,华丽的金棕色亮缎服饰,优雅的复古毛皮无边女帽,Naomi Campell的多元风格登场让人目不暇接。之后的T台愈加缤纷,民族风的刺绣印花、金属质感的缎面丝绒、男装女穿、图腾般的蝴蝶花样……Anna把各异的元素融合在一起,天马行空却注重整体的形式与元素间的和谐。 Louise Nevelson在60年代到达其艺术生涯的巅峰,这正是Anna所钟情的年代,可以想见她选择这个“缪斯”的理由。60年代复古风的混搭已经成为Anna Sui的标志,妈妈式的花线毛衣搭配缀满花边缎带的薄纱娃娃衫,图书管理员般紧绷的衬衫搭配柔软的层叠丝质围巾花,或是华丽飘逸的缎面服饰搭配粗放厚重的金属链……就像是给洋娃娃搭配服装的游戏,Anna玩得不亦乐乎。











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